Smoked Ahi Tuna Tacos

1. To prepare teriyaki sauce: Combine tamari (or shoyu) and 1/4 cup brown sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add ginger and crushed garlic; reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl. Discard solids. Set aside.

2. To prepare aioli: Mash chopped garlic with 1/8 teaspoon salt into a paste in a mortar and pestle or with a fork on a cutting board. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add mayonnaise, mustard and cumin; mix well. Set aside.

3. To prepare tacos: If using a gas grill, add the wood chip packet (see Tip) and preheat to high. Then turn off 1 burner and reduce the heat on the remaining 1 to 2 burners to medium. If using a charcoal grill, build a two-zone fire (coals on one side of the grill) and let it burn down to medium heat (about 350°F). Then drain wood chips and add to the coals.

4. Oil the grill rack. Sprinkle fish with brown sugar and salt. Place it on the unlit portion of the grill. Cover and smoke until firm, brushing with half of the teriyaki sauce halfway through, about 20 minutes. (Reserve the rest of the sauce for serving.) Transfer the fish to a clean cutting board. When cool enough to handle, flake the fish.

5. Meanwhile, combine carrot, celery, apple and scallion in a medium bowl.

6. Oil the grill rack again and cook tortillas until slightly charred, flipping halfway, about 1 minute.

7. Serve the fish with the tortillas, chopped salad, lettuce, tomato, the aioli and the remaining teriyaki sauce.

Tips

Less-sodium tamari, sometimes called tamari "lite," cuts the amount of salt per serving by 50% compared to the regular version—and without sacrificing flavor (we tried them side by side in a blind taste test). It even has 100 mg less sodium than low-sodium soy sauce. People with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity should use soy sauces that are labeled "gluten-free," as soy sauce may contain wheat or other gluten-containing ingredients.

To make a wood chip packet, fold a 12-by-20-inch piece of heavy-duty foil in half to create a 12-by-10-inch double-thick piece. Drain the wood chips and transfer to the center of the foil. Create a packet by folding the short ends of the foil over the chips and folding the open ends to seal them.