Soup Joumou

To prepare marinade and meat: In a blender or food processor, combine celery, garlic, habanero, scallion, onion, green, yellow and red bell peppers, parsley, lime juice, 2 tablespoons oil, ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ cup water. Blend or process until mostly smooth, scraping down the blender or processor as needed, about 1 minute.

Place beef (or goat) in a small bowl. Squeeze sour orange (or lemon) over the meat. Add 1 cup water and stir to coat the meat. Drain off the liquid, then add 1 cup of the marinade to the meat; cover and refrigerate overnight. (Reserve remaining marinade for garnish.)

To prepare soup: Place the meat and marinade in a medium pot. Add 1 cup water; cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed, until the meat is tender but not falling apart, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, place squash in a large pot and add 5 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the squash is fork tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Scoop out the squash with a slotted spoon and transfer to a blender (reserve the liquid). Add about ½ cup of the cooking liquid to the blender; blend until smooth. (Alternatively, you can use an immersion blender to puree the squash in the pot. Use caution when blending hot liquids.) Set aside.

Add 4 cups water to the liquid in the pot. Add carrots, leek, cabbage, celery, onion, garlic, cilantro, thyme, parsley, cloves, garlic powder, onion powder and salt. (If going meatless, stir in 1 tablespoon grapeseed or olive oil.) Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the blended squash, along with the cooked meat and any remaining liquid, potatoes (or malanga), turnip and habanero, if using. Simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the potatoes (or malanga) are beginning to get tender, about 30 minutes.

Add pasta and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Adjust seasonings with salt and some of the reserved epis, if desired. Serve with Haitian or French bread.