Chouquettes (Sugared Mini Puffs)

Position racks in lower and upper thirds of oven; preheat to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

Combine butter, milk, water, granulated sugar and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. When it's boiling and the butter is melted, stir, then add all-purpose flour and pastry flour. Beat with a sturdy spatula or wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides and leaves a film on the bottom of the pan, about 4 minutes.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or to a large bowl). Add eggs, one by one, beating for 1 minute after each addition. Beat in egg white.

Scrape the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch-diameter tip. (Alternatively, use a 1-gallon sealable plastic bag: press the dough into a corner, then snip a 1/4-inch opening from the corner.)

Pipe out little buttons of dough 1/2 to ¾ inch in diameter onto the prepared baking sheets; leave a scant inch between them. If you're baking the chouquettes now, sprinkle generously with pearl or sanding sugar. If you're freezing them, hold the sugar until just before baking.

Bake the chouquettes, rotating the pans top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Turn off the oven, open the door a crack—hold it open with a wooden spoon—and let the chouquettes "dry" for 15 minutes. They should feel firm and you should be able to peel them off the paper (or mats) easily. Allow the chouquettes to cool on the pans for 5 minutes. Serve when they're only just warm or at room temperature.