Black Bass Packets in Curry-Coconut Broth

To prepare broth: Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add garlic, shallot and lemongrass and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add clam juice, water, coconut milk and curry powder. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Season with sugar and salt. Set aside.

To prepare bass packets: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Have a bowl of ice water nearby. Blanch cabbage leaves in boiling water until pliable, 2 to 3 minutes. With tongs, immediately transfer the leaves to the ice water. Drain, pat dry and set aside.

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Cook carrot just until tender, about 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl. Cook fennel just until tender, about 3 minutes. Add to the carrot. Cook shiitakes for 30 seconds. Drain and toss with the carrot mixture.

Trim the tough center stem from each cabbage leaf. Lay a 16-inch-long sheet of heavyweight plastic wrap on a work surface and place 2 cabbage leaves in the center, overlapping them by about 2 inches. Arrange one-fourth of the carrot mixture across the center of the cabbage. Top with 2 tarragon leaves. Place a piece of fish on top and sprinkle with 1/4 of the salt and pepper. Wrap the cabbage leaves around the bass, roll up the packets in plastic and twist the ends tightly; trim excess plastic with scissors. Repeat with the remaining cabbage leaves, vegetables, tarragon and bass.

Bring 1 inch of water to a boil in a large pot fitted with a steamer basket. Add the packets and steam until cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. (See Tip, below.)

Bring the reserved broth back to a boil. Unwrap the packets (discard the plastic) and cut each one in half. Place 2 halves in each of 4 shallow bowls and ladle the broth around them. Garnish with tomato, scallion and lime juice. Serve immediately.