Mapo Tofu

1. Combine 5 tablespoons oil, chili bean paste, fermented black beans and chile flakes (or crushed red pepper) in a small bowl. Whisk cornstarch and water in another small bowl. Set both next to the stove.

2. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large flat-bottom wok or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add beef and cook, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until it is cooked through and browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

3. Add the reserved chili bean paste mixture to the pan and cook until fragrant, being careful not to burn it, about 1 minute. Add water (or broth), soy sauce and scallions. Return the beef to the pan, then add tofu; bring to a simmer, gently tossing the tofu with the sauce, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the cornstarch slurry, stirring, and cook until the sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with ground Sichuan peppercorns.

Tips

Equipment: Spice grinder or mortar and pestle

Tips: Pixian chili bean paste (doubanjiang): A salty and spicy umami concentrate made with chiles and fermented fava beans, the paste gives deep flavor to braises, soups and stir-fries. It is sometimes labeled "broad bean" chili paste.

Fermented black beans (douchi): These black beans are preserved in a heady mix of liquor and spices. The beans can be added to an array of dishes to add both salt and flavor. The more familiar Cantonese black beans make a good substitute but are fermented with salt only, so rinse them before using.

Sichuan chile flakes: Whole dried chiles that have been fried until crisp and ground into a mix of flakes, powder and seeds. Korean pepper powder, available at Korean markets and online, is a good substitute.

To grind Sichuan peppercorns, sort and discard any black seeds or twigs. Toast in a dry skillet over low heat until very fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes (do not brown them). Let cool, then grind in a spice grinder or in a mortar and pestle to your desired coarseness. Sift out any yellow husks that don't break down. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 3 weeks.