Dry Pot Chicken (Gan Guo Ji)

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Place tofu skin in a medium bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak for 30 minutes. Drain.

3. Meanwhile, toss chicken with 2 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon Shaoxing and ground pepper in a large bowl. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part without touching bone registers 165 degrees F, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a clean cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones (discard bones and skin). Cut the chicken into bite-size pieces and set aside.

4. Heat a small skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Add cumin seeds, fennel seeds and peppercorns; toast, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate to cool, then coarsely grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Transfer to a small bowl and add chili bean paste and chili flakes (or crushed red pepper); mix well and set aside.

5. Put a large pot of water on to boil and set a large bowl of ice water beside the stove. Add the tofu skin and potato to the boiling water. Cook until the potato is just tender, about 5 minutes. Add broccolini and celery; cook for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables and tofu skin to the ice water, then transfer to a clean kitchen towel to drain.

6. Heat a large flat-bottom wok or cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add 4 tablespoons oil and onion. Cook, stirring, until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Add jalapeño (or serrano) and dried chiles to taste, garlic and ginger. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

7. Push the aromatics to the sides of the pan, making a well in the center. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, followed by the reserved peppercorn mixture. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chicken and scallions; cook, stirring, until the chicken is hot, about 1 minute. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon Shaoxing and soy sauce around the edges of the pan, then add the vegetables and tofu skin. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are hot, about 1 minute more. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Tips

Equipment: Parchment paper, spice grinder or mortar and pestle

Tips: Dried tofu skin: Chewy tofu skin is made from the layer of solids that forms on top of heated soymilk (think pudding skin). It is sold dried in sheets and must be rehydrated to use.

Shaoxing rice wine: A key ingredient for adding depth of flavor to Chinese sauces and soups. It is similar in flavor to sherry, but contains salt and sugar for added punch.

Sichuan peppercorns: Sichuan peppercorns (a member of the citrus family and unrelated to black peppercorns) have a citrusy aroma and supply the numbing half of the signature flavor of Sichuan food.

Pixian chili bean paste (doubanjiang): A salty and spicy umami concentrate made with chiles and fermented fava beans, the paste gives deep flavor to braises, soups and stir-fries. It is sometimes labeled "broad bean" chili paste.

Sichuan chile flakes: Whole dried chiles that have been fried until crisp and ground into a mix of flakes, powder and seeds. Korean pepper powder, available at Korean markets and online, is a good substitute.