Grilled Long Beans with Creamy Pasilla Chile

Remove stems, seeds and membranes from chiles. Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chiles and toast, turning with tongs and pressing down on them frequently, until very fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and add enough cold water to cover. Place a plate on top of the chiles to keep them submerged and soak until very soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain and cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips.

Preheat grill to medium. (If using green beans, place a grill basket on the grill while it preheats.)

Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in the pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer half of the onion mixture to a mini food processor. Transfer the other half to a small bowl, leaving as much oil as possible in the pan. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan and return to medium heat. Add the chile strips and cook, stirring constantly, until the chiles are aromatic and have changed color, about 1 minute.

Add half the chiles to the food processor along with crema (or crème fraîche), water and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Blend until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape the sauce back into the pan. Cover and place over low heat to keep warm.

Add the remaining chiles to the onion mixture in the bowl. Stir in vinegar and 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Toss beans with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Grill, turning often, until tender-crisp, about 6 minutes. Serve the beans with the sauce and the chile-onion mixture.