She-Crab Soup

Prepare fish stock: Place shrimp shells in a large saucepan. Add carrot, celery, onion, parsley sprigs, bay leaf, whole peppercorns, and salt. Add the water and lemon juice. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes. Strain the mixture through 100%-cotton cheesecloth; discard the solids; set aside.

Prepare soup: Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat; add onion, celery, and garlic. Cook and stir until tender. Add sherry. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Boil gently, uncovered, until the liquid is nearly evaporated.

Stir in uncooked brown rice. Add fish stock and crab roe (or red caviar). Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Cover and simmer for about 40 minutes or until the rice is very tender. Cool the mixture slightly.

Puree the rice mixture in a blender, half at a time if necessary, until almost smooth. Return to the saucepan; stir in half-and-half. Heat through. Stir in crabmeat. Sprinkle individual servings with snipped chives.