Chocolate Soufflés

Position a rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 375 degrees F.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter. Lightly brush the insides and rims of eight 4- or 5-ounce ramekins with the butter. Use 3 tablespoons sugar to coat the insides and rims of all the ramekins (see Tip).

Combine flour and salt in a small saucepan and gradually whisk in 1/2 cup milk. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is completely melted. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl and whisk in egg yolks and the remaining 1 tablespoon milk.

Beat egg whites and cream of tartar in a stand mixer on medium-high speed (or with a hand-held mixer on high speed) until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar and beat until the mixture holds stiff, shiny peaks.

Whisk one-fourth of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. With a rubber spatula, gently fold in the remaining egg whites just until incorporated. Divide the batter evenly among the ramekins.

Without wiping the sugar from the rims, run the tip of a toothpick between the batter and sides of each ramekin to encourage the soufflés to rise high and straight. Set the ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet.

Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center is moist and a bit gooey but not runny, 15 to 20 minutes. Soufflés will rise and may crack on top before they are done. Serve drizzled with cream, if desired.