Black Bean Clams with Two Noodles

Whisk cornstarch and water in a small bowl until smooth. Mix in tamari, sesame oil and sugar. Set near the stove.

Heat 1 tablespoon peanut oil in a 14-inch flat-bottom carbon-steel wok over medium-high heat. Add squash and stir-fry noodles; cook, stirring gently, until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon peanut oil, scallions, chile, garlic, ginger and black beans (or sauce) to the pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add clams and rice wine (or sherry). Cover, reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the clams are open, 7 to 10 minutes. (Discard any unopened clams.) Use a slotted spoon to transfer the clams on top of the noodles.

Whisk the cornstarch mixture and add to the pan. Cook, stirring, until the sauce is thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Drizzle the sauce over the clams and noodles and top with cilantro, if using.