Farmy Hummus

Place chickpeas in a medium saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water; stir in baking soda. Soak overnight. (Alternatively, to quick-soak: Boil chickpeas, baking soda and water for 2 minutes. Cover and let stand for 1 hour.)

Drain the chickpeas and rinse well. Rinse out the pan. Return the chickpeas to the pan and cover with 2 inches fresh water. Bring to a boil. Keep at a rolling boil until the chickpeas are tender and almost falling apart, 25 to 40 minutes. Reserve 3/4 cup of the cooking water, then drain and rinse the chickpeas.

Combine the chickpeas, the reserved cooking water, oil, tahini, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, paprika, salt and pepper in a food processor. Process until smooth, scraping down the sides once or twice. Refrigerate the hummus until chilled but not cold, about 1 hour. Serve topped with more oil, shiso and dried calendula petals, if desired.