Coriander-Crusted Baked Cod with Leeks

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Trim leek roots and any brown tips off the greens and discard. Cut off 2 inches of the white ends and cut into thin strips; set aside. Cut the remaining light and dark green portions in half lengthwise and rinse well to clean between the layers without pulling them apart. Pat dry. (See Tip.)

Arrange the leek greens cut-side down in a 9-by-13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Nestle thyme sprigs between them and drizzle with 3 tablespoons oil, wine and water. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cover tightly with foil and transfer to the oven.

Braise the leeks until very soft and starting to brown, about 45 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the liquid has evaporated and the leeks are lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes more.

Meanwhile, toast coriander seeds in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and lightly crush or coarsely grind in a spice grinder.

Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil to the pan over medium-high heat. Add the reserved leek whites and cook, stirring frequently, until browned and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the frizzled leeks to a paper-towel-lined plate, leaving as much of the oil in the pan as possible. Sprinkle the leeks with a pinch of salt.

Season cod with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Return the pan to medium-high heat. Add the cod to the hot oil and cook for 4 minutes. Turn the cod over, brush with mustard and sprinkle with the coriander. Cook until the fish flakes easily with a fork, 2 to 4 minutes more.

Divide the braised leeks among 4 plates. Top with the cod and frizzled leeks. Garnish with thyme, if desired.