Tomato Salad with Charred Red Onions & Okra Fries

To prepare dressing: Whisk cheese, yogurt, mayonnaise, buttermilk, tarragon, scallion, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper in a small bowl. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. Add more buttermilk, if necessary, so it's thick but pourable.

To prepare okra & tomatoes: Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Toss okra with 2 tablespoons oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Spread on a large rimmed baking sheet with a little space between pieces. Roast okra for 8 minutes. Gently toss and continue roasting until browned in spots, with crispy edges, 8 to 12 minutes more. Let cool.

Meanwhile, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle onion rounds with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Spread the onion rings out in the pan and cook until dark chestnut-colored in multiple spots, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate to cool.

Slice tomatoes into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. Arrange on a serving platter or divide among 6 salad plates. Season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and crushed red pepper and top with the onions and the okra fries. Drizzle with the dressing or pass it separately.