Stir-Fried Chinese Broccoli

Trim 1/4 inch off broccoli stalks. If the stalks are thicker than 1/2 inch, cut in half lengthwise. Keeping them separate, cut the stalks and leaves into 2-inch-long pieces. Combine sugar and salt in a small bowl.

Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or large heavy skillet (not nonstick) over high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Swirl in 1 tablespoon oil and add ginger and crushed red pepper; stir-fry until the ginger is fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the broccoli stalks and stir-fry until bright green, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Swirl in the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and add the broccoli leaves; sprinkle with the sugar mixture and stir-fry until the leaves are bright green and just limp, about 1 minute. Swirl in rice wine (or sherry); stir-fry until the stalks are just crisp-tender, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Remove the ginger before serving.