Mango-Chile Chutney (Aam Chutney)

Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add mustard seeds, cover, and cook until the seeds have stopped popping, 20 to 30 seconds. Add mango (or pineapple), raisins and chiles to taste. (It may spatter.) Reduce the heat to medium and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the raisins are plump and the fruit is lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes.

Add sugar and cook, stirring, until it dissolves, about 2 minutes. Add water and salt. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is syrupy-thick, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in cilantro and serve warm.