Greek Spaghetti (Makaronia me Kima)

Cook lamb in a large pot over medium-high heat, stirring often and breaking up with a spoon, until no longer pink, 7 to 8 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring, until translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook, stirring, until tender but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in wine and scrape up any browned bits. Add tomatoes and their juice, water, salt, pepper, cinnamon and allspice.

Reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced and thickened, about 1 hour. (Add a little water if it seems too dry.)

About 20 minutes before the sauce is ready, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook spaghetti according to package directions. Drain well. Transfer to a large bowl, add butter and toss until melted. Transfer to a serving platter. Ladle the sauce over the spaghetti. Serve topped with cheese, if desired.