Spicy Vegetable Lo Mein

1. Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add noodles and cook according to package directions. Drain and rinse with cold water. Shake well to remove excess water. Transfer the noodles to a cutting board and roughly cut into thirds. Return the noodles to the pot and toss with sesame oil. Set aside.

2. Trim 1/4 inch off broccoli (or broccolini) stalks. If the stalks are thicker than 1/2 inch, cut in half lengthwise. Keeping them separate, cut stalks and leaves into 2-inch-long pieces. Combine soy sauce, rice wine (or sherry) and hot sauce in a small bowl.

3. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or large heavy skillet (not nonstick) over high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Swirl in 1 tablespoon peanut oil, add ginger and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add mushrooms and the broccoli (or broccolini) stalks and stir-fry until all the oil is absorbed, about 30 seconds. Swirl in the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and add the noodles and broccoli leaves; stir-fry until just combined, about 15 seconds. Stir the soy sauce mixture and swirl it in. Sprinkle with salt and stir-fry until the noodles are heated through, 1 to 2 minutes.

Tips

Equipment: 14-inch flat-bottomed carbon-steel wok

Chinese broccoli has a slight bitter flavor reminiscent of broccoli rabe, which is a good substitute (as is broccolini). Look for it in Asian markets, at farmers' markets and some well-stocked supermarkets; opt for bunches with tight flower buds (open flowers are a sign of age).

Shao Hsing (or Shaoxing) is a seasoned rice wine used in Chinese cooking to flavor sauces, marinades and stir-fries. Look for it in Asian specialty markets or with other Asian ingredients in large supermarkets. In a pinch, dry sherry is a good substitute.