Chard Dumplings in Chive Broth

To prepare dumping filling: Finely chop enough chard leaves to measure 3 cups; set aside. Finely chop enough chard stems to measure 1/4 cup. (Reserve any remaining leaves and/or stems for another use.)

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and the chard stems and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add water and cook until the liquid has evaporated, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in capicola (or pancetta) and cook until the mixture is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes more. Stir in garlic, lemon zest and crushed red pepper (if using) and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and the reserved chard leaves and cook, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is somewhat dry, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let cool for 5 minutes. Stir in ricotta and salt.

To prepare dumplings: You'll need a clean, dry work surface, a baking sheet lightly dusted with flour and a small bowl of water. Cut the wonton wrappers in half on the diagonal. Cover them with a clean kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out. Lay 6 wrapper halves on the work surface. Spoon about 1/2 teaspoon of the filling in the middle of each (Photo 1, right). Moisten a fingertip and run it along the edges of the wrapper (Photo 2). Fold in half to contain the filling, forming a smaller triangle (Photo 3). Press the edges to seal (Photo 4). Pinch the 2 farthest ends together, making a tortellini-like shape (Photo 5). Place the dumpling on the prepared baking sheet (Photo 6); cover with a damp paper towel until ready to cook. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.

To cook & serve dumplings: Bring broth and water to a lively simmer in a Dutch oven or soup pot. Stir the liquid while carefully adding half the dumplings. Cook, stirring once or twice, for 4 minutes. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon and divide among 4 soup bowls. Repeat with the remaining dumplings, dividing among 4 more soup bowls as they are done. Ladle about 1 cup of the broth into each bowl. Serve immediately, sprinkled with chives (or scallion greens) and Parmesan, if using.