Red-Cooked Tofu with Mushrooms

Fold a clean kitchen towel and place it on a cutting board or large plate. Set tofu on the towel. Put another folded clean towel over the tofu and place a flat, heavy weight (such as a skillet) on top; drain for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, place dried shiitakes (or black mushrooms) in a measuring cup, cover with hot water and set aside for 20 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid. Discard the mushroom stems and cut the caps in half. Set aside.

Stir the reserved mushroom-soaking liquid, broth, soy sauce, oyster sauce, rice wine (or sherry) and sugar in a small bowl until the sugar has dissolved.

Cut the pressed tofu into 1/2-inch cubes. Heat oil in a wok or large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the reserved mushrooms, leek and garlic; cook, stirring, until fragrant, 10 to 15 seconds. Add the broth mixture and bring to a boil. Add the tofu, white mushrooms and fresh shiitakes and return to a boil. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle boil and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half, 10 to 15 minutes.

Stir cornstarch and water mixture. Add to the pan and cook, stirring, until the sauce is thickened, about 1 minute.