Listen, no one wants to turn on the oven in the summer. But that’s no reason to stop roasting. You’ve already got an oven out on the deck. So with less trouble than you think, you can grill-roast perfectly caramelized chicken thighs, spice-rubbed pork loins and smoky turkey breasts in no time.
So here’s how it works: You set the cuts to the side of the heat, not directly over it. If you’ve got a gas grill like ours, you preheat it then turn off the left or right side, or just the back burners if you have a front-to-back system. If you’ve got a charcoal grill, you build a hot, well-ashed coal bed in the center of the grill, then rake the coals to the side, leaving one side without any direct heat. In either case, you set the meat on the portion of the grill grate without any direct heat under it. Cover the grill and away you go.
Once you’ve got the technique down, you, too, can get the most out of your grill in the summer. And best of all, you’ll have used it well and truly by the time you have to lug it back down the stairs. Unless, of course, you live in a place where no lugging is necessary. But if that’s the case we don’t even want to hear about it.