One night a few months ago, Paul Freedman, Yale professor and editor of the award-winning tome Food: The History of Taste, was given the somewhat daunting task of taking René Redzepi out to dinner. Freedman led the man behind Copenhagen’s renowned Noma—named the world’s best restaurant in 2010, 2011 and 2012—down the back streets of New Haven, Connecticut, to a nondescript sushi restaurant called Miya’s.
It was a busy night, with students lining up at the door. Inside, the two rooms were packed with mismatched chairs, tables and dinnerware recycled or salvaged from Goodwill. Latino chefs screamed out orders behind the sushi bar. Proprietor Bun Lai, built like a wrestler (which he is) and wearing jeans and a T-shirt, bounded between tables greeting diners with his impish smile. It could have been a scene at any college-town restaurant except for just one thing: the mind-blowing oversized, 50-page menu.
Next: The Menu »